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| First ascent of Titinden: Elizabeth
Main (a.k.a. Aubrey Le Blond), Emil Imboden and Josef Imboden,
summer 1899 First
winter ascent of Titinden by Geir Jenssen and Are Navas, 1. April
1980.
A short route description: Titinden is the northernmost, 10th peak of the Lakselvtindene. Start from Holmbukta in Sørfjorden. Follow Goverdalen for 4 km until you stand right under the East face of Titinden. The route follows a snowy, icy gully that starts 400 m above sea level and leads up to a little notch between the North and East summit. Mostly 45 degrees on snow, but also steeper sections with ice and rock. The two rectangles shows the two slightly difficult sections. The first one in the form of a small ice field, the second in the form of a steep mixed section with snow, ice and rock. The first one can be avoided by following the snow fields to the left of the gully instead of climbing the gully itself. From the summit notch follow a corniced, quite dangerous ridge for 100 m to the main South summit. About the return: It is possible to return down the "normal" route on the West face, but because we could not find it we were forced to climb down the East face. Two abseils over the difficult sections. A long climb! Recommended equipment: Ice axe, crampons, 2-3 snow anchors, 2-3 ice screws, 2-3 Friends and a couple of slings. From my diary: "On Tuesday the weather changed for the better. Sunshine and -2 degrees Celcius. We decided to try a gully on the East face of Titinden. We started climbing around noon and reached the summit ridge at 7 pm. We followed a narrow ridge to the summit. First winter ascent of Titinden! Spent two hours looking for an alternative return route, but gave up and had to downclimb the East face route. This took us all night. Reached the camp at 5 am. A few hours later and the others would have contacted the police to start a rescue operation. (No mobile phones in those days!) |
The East face
of
Titinden as seen from
Sløkedalen
The East face of Titinden
as seen from Sløkedalen.
The East face of Titinden
as seen Goverdalen.
Are Navas on the
first ice
section.
Looking down the gully
Looking down the gully.
